My first encounter with Jack was at the Mould Cheese Festival in 2021. He was giving a masterclass discussion moderated by Dan Sims, (the big cheese behind the Mould Cheese Festival) where they delved into Jack's journey into cheese making, a trip which took a pivotal turn during a sojourn in India around 2000. There, he met two third-generation French cheesemakers, sparking his burgeoning interest in the craft. This chance meeting led him to their farm in Southern France, where he was introduced to the art of cheese making. Tasting handmade artisan cheese that told the story of the land and its animals was a transformative experience for Jack, igniting a passion that would eventually lead him to work at Yarra Valley Dairy and later establish Stone & Crow Cheese Company.
Jack crafted his first cheese, "Moonshine," during the midnight hours while still working full-time at Yarra Valley Dairy. This marked the beginning of Stone & Crow Cheese Company in 2015. Jack took his inspiration from observing the distillation process at Four Pillars Gin in the Yarra Valley. Jack’s “light bulb moment”, using the leftover liquid, known as stillage, which retains the gin botanicals, and incorporate these unique flavours into a cheese. The name ”Moonshine” is a clever choice reflecting both the infusion process and the late-night hours spent crafting it.
The masterclass chat covered a lot of terrain including Jack’s deep appreciation for the Yarra Valley, and the hiking adventures that inspire his work. Out of a campfire conversation had with a group of hiking mates, came the name Night Walker, embodying the camaraderie and adventure of their night time bush walking under the moon.
The jovial banter between Jack and Dan and all the talk of naming cheeses saw them come up with a cheese name - “Blue Jeans” cause Jack likes to name cheeses after things he loves. Whilst there is no “Blue Jeans” cheese as yet, (I live in hope) there is a spectacular ashed goats cheese called Amiel, named after his daughter. And she’s named after the town in the South of France where Jack worked made Cheese.
That masterclass was an intimate setting, given that, that year’s Mould Festival was lucky to go ahead with the challenges of being postponed and the madness that was Melbourne in and out of lockdown at the time, the silver lining… allowing for a more personal interaction. That was one of two things that went in my favour that day, the other was a gentle nudge from my girlfriend, who boldly introduced me to Jack by saying, “Hi Jack, this is my girlfriend Jeanette; she sells cheese,” her way of not so subtly managing me to overcome my shyness.
Our brief chat spilled over into a sampling of the Stone & Crow cheeses on offer, we relished every bite.
The next time I had an opportunity to talk cheese with Jack, was after I reached out to him via email expressing my desire to learn cheese making from him. I was thrilled he agreed to teach me, confirming his generous spirit and passion for sharing his knowledge that was evident at the Mould masterclass.
The time spent with Jack out at his make room saw me put through my culinary paces.
My first time making cheese, Jack patiently explained and guided me through the process, things that are second nature for him, in terms of cultures, timings and temperatures, was information overload for me, but I got to cut the curds (the best part of cheese making), hand ladle them into the moulds, wash and turn the Night Walkers, wrap cheeses and tend to the hard cheese, wiping and turning them over. I loved every minute of it. I left with not only newfound skills but also a deeper appreciation for the craft of cheese making and the man behind Stone & Crow Cheese Company, having had my own transformative experience.
Why is it called Stone and Crow?
"Stone and Crow is a combination of our family names. Crow is mischievous and cheeky, while Stone is rock solid. It’s about creating cheese that is adventurous and reliable.
We make sure we’re having fun making cheese. We create products that bring people together. We love food, and we love sharing that with friends and family.”
Lets talk cheese
Four Pillars Moonshine
"During the cheese making process the cheese is washed with Four Pillars Gin Distillate. This fills the cheese room with lovely aromas of gin and gives the cheese a big botanical punch. The cheese is aged on wood and washed twice a week. The natural rind is formed every time the cheese is washed and flipped."
Night Walker
"Night Walker is a washed rind, cow’s milk cheese. It is a luxurious, creamy cheese that becomes deliciously gooey when aged to perfection. Night Walker has hints of mushroom and hay coming to the fore when the cheese is enjoyed at room temperature. The luscious flavours and texture are due to the meticulous daily washing method that creates the perfect microbial balance."
Amiel
"This special, halo-shaped goat’s cheese is a lactic curd, surface ripened with a sprinkle of ash. It has a light, fudgy texture with a delicate, enticing rind. The dark ash peeks through the white bloom and this, combined with the unique shape, makes Amiel the perfect addition to any cheese board.
Remember a summer when you worked crazy hours, partied like there was no tomorrow, slept for a few hours and then got up and did it all again? Well for Jack, that summer was when he lived in Amiel in the South of France, making cheese. Amiel is a cheese to celebrate the times in our lives when we enjoy every moment."
Gus
"The Gus is the big cousin to our Galactic. Made with triple cream from Gippsland Jersey cows. It is a lactic curd cheese with a geotricum rind (white mould rind). The geotricum rind is different to the standard white mould rind, being more delicate and faster to establish in the maturing room.
When Jack was 16 years old, he started adventuring in Tasmania. He and his mates would hike into the pristine wilderness or take advantage of the mountain biking trails. They would always visit Jack's big cousin Gus. Gus would give them a place to stay and a feed. He was a lover of good food and cheese. Gus is no longer around, but Jack keeps his memory alive with this velvety, decadent cheese."
[Cheese descriptions from Stone and Crow website]
Comments